In the US, star, rebel and eco-conscious Dominique Cren arrives in the kitchens of Hotel La Fantaisie in Paris, determined to give free rein to her pesco-vegetarian cuisine.
Gavroche hat screwed to his head, androgynous body à la Twiggy, biceps embossed with Celtic knitting, super-wonderful energy, he who left at the age of 21, diploma in economics in his pocket, Breton palms for stoves Californians decided: set foot in France. La Fantaisie, a new green hotel in the 9th arrondissement of Paris, designed by Swede Martin Brudnizki, was the perfect location for this culinary UFO, named the world’s best chef in 2016 and the first woman to win in 2018. Three Michelin stars in the US, with his Atelier Crenn in San Francisco. Restaurant, rooftop, bar. he intends to create “Dominica vibes,” to evoke a Parisian lenderno California dream style, but “not the avocado toast, Caesar salad and other burrata-tomatoes” that roll in nets and ball it up. . Its credo is “Respect for the planet, people, zero waste, zero plastic, local meteorites, sustainable and freestyle fishing”.
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An extraordinary journey
But how to explain that the call of Paris suddenly forced itself on this rock and roll poet of pots, whose menu: farm-to-table (farm to table) to come in the form of a haiku? An incredible lifeline that lured him back in. The need to get closer to his adoptive mother, Breton, to accompany her to the end of the road. But also the discovery that his biological mother, herself an orphan, undoubtedly gave birth to him five to seven years ago in a Paris homeless shelter. “In the beginning, our idea with Maria (actress Maria Bello, with whom he shares his life, editor’s note) had to have a house in Paris to come with our twins. And then, my chef friend Caroline Rostang told me about La Fantaisie. “An address created for you,” he told me. In short, she, whose DNA (which she deciphered) happily mixes Franco-German origin, North Africa and the flavors of Anatolia and Siberia (“I am the woman of the world,” she smiles), has decided to return to the cradle. about his history. And let’s add, raging against the administrative passion of France. “It remains the most beautiful country in the world, and Paris is my favorite city.”
We’re gonna have fun, it’s gonna rock
He warns from the beginning. he’s there to shake up the codes, to put his feet into a cuisine based on California’s melting pot spirit, its ingenuity, “politically, socially and environmentally committed.” But who, as a constituent part, does not allow himself an exit from France. “The fish, the seafood, the vegetables, everything will be 100% local, sourced in France, nearby or in Brittany, with absolute respect for the producers and the fishermen.” Symbolic of this fierce desire to be part of a virtuous culinary ecosystem, the name chosen for the complex’s restaurant is Golden Poppy. “It’s a typical California flower that looks a bit like a tulip. A native species that cannot be cut or eradicated. They’re all over my farm in Sonoma.”
Unique style
Aged fish, bao and spice, fish and kimchi sauerkraut, herring with umami notes of caramel and banana, crispy rice, dashi and pico de gallo… are at the Golden Tulip table overlooking the garden courtyard. Cocktails and delicious snacks are served on the rooftop. Homemade bread and colorful tea sets punctuate the menu at Poppy Café, which has a window and terrace overlooking the street. La Fantaisie by Dominique Crenn promises to redefine the cards for dedicated eco and ocean cuisine. Michelin’s style is well defined.
24, rue Cadet, 75009 Paris. lafantaisie.com is scheduled to open in June.
Source: Le Figaro
