From the feet of lumberjacks to the feet of rap stars, the crazy saga of Timberland boots has a cult following of its own.

Fashion events are rare in Stratham, a small town of about 7,600 in Rockingham County, New Hampshire, USA. These places owe their reputation more to hiking trails, harsh winters or wild plains surrounded by vast bodies of water than to small gatherings among locals. fashion. However, at the end of February 2023, the focus of artists and designers presented the result of their collaboration with Timberland. The headquarters of the brand has always been in this forest environment, which is located only one hundred kilometers from the city of Boston. Designers Humberto Leon (formerly at Kenzo and founder of Opening Ceremony), Samuel Ross (former assistant to Virgil Abloh and founder of A Cold Wall), Christopher Rayburn (upcycling specialist), actor Edison Chen (founder of Clot), designer Susan Oude Hengel and artist Nina Chanel Abney have illustrated their vision of the iconic object, the 6-inch shoe.

This construction shoe is recognizable among thousands, with a notched rubber sole, round toe and the unique honey color that has made Timberland a legend. Fifty years of this utility clothing giant and lifestyle surfed a wave of requests for this model, with the first pair worn by the lumberjacks now becoming a wardrobe standard. But how do you ensure that enthusiasm doesn’t die? Fueling the increasingly volatile desire of teenagers. And to ensure that these lace-up shoes, now in their fifties, will still be relevant in the next fifty years.

Honey future

So on this day in February, Timberland hosted at home. And gave an overview of his thinking on the subject, worked with a team of artists and contemporary designers. In the future, from the inscription of his cult shoe, a shape often remains in the creative minds, sometimes also the famous honey yellow, like the model presented by Humberto Leon, the cut of the sole of which takes on cartoon clothes. “I wanted to celebrate the iconic spirit of the shoe, emphasizing its soul that comes directly from pop culture. I designed these details to emphasize their contours,” explains the American designer, referring to the eyelets, laces, sole and label, whose features he purportedly enhanced.

There are also functional additions and recycled or more technical cover options, such as the parachute fabrics reused by Britain’s Christopher Rayburn. Thus, each of the collaborators portrays a desire to combine a utilitarian approach and a conceptual aesthetic. “They took the Timberland Premium 6-inch boot and transformed it through the lens of their bold innovation and design ethos, giving us a glimpse of what the icon of the future could look like. It’s our heritage with their vision, and together we’re building new frontiers in footwear culture,” explains Timberland’s director of marketing, Driek Lenknegt.

Crazy in Milan

This innovative and aesthetic grammar is quite new in the history of Timberland. It was formed in 2011 following the takeover of the brand by sportswear giant VF Corporation (owner of Vans, The North Face and Eastpak, among others). To relaunch its car, then decline, the brand decided to preserve its utilitarian DNA and fully embrace its urban style, which lies at the beginning of its huge success story, which has long been spent between the entire marketing strategy.

Initially, suede nubuck boots, developed by Sidney Swartz in 1973, had no other purpose than to dress the feet of lumberjacks. The latter appreciated the strength, waterproofness, as well as the color of the model, very practical to make themselves visible in the middle of branches and other rough terrain. But the case took an unexpected turn in the 1980s with a sudden frenzy in Italy.

Rolled-up jeans (Levi’s 501 or Emporio Armani models on the front row), Timberland boots, a plaid shirt or polo shirt, Ray-Bans, a Moncler jacket and a backpack are the domain of everything.” panini who respects himself. The term refers to the style adopted by Milan’s gilded youth at the time, whose name derives from frequent visits to Milan’s Al Panino bar, eager to adopt the American look that was imposed across the country and then exported between New York and Paris. In Tokyo and cities everywhere on the planet. Here’s how a 6-inch boot takes its first steps into urban culture.

But the link panini swallows quickly. Timberland’s booming footwear business again escaped the brand’s marketing projections in the 1990s, falling under the influence of hip-hop stars. A slice of rap, represented by Wu-Tang Clan, Aaliyah, Mobb Deep and DMX, appears in a wardrobe of extra baggy pants, see-through boxer shorts, hoodies and XXL t-shirts. And studded with a pair of Timberland. This one is infused with lyrics from New York rappers like producer Timbaland, who will also be donning his stage name. Rapper Biggie Smalls wears it in his concerts and talks about it in his song To hypnotize released in 1997, while Nas made them tireless companions throughout his career. As staunch followers, artists love to reminisce about their obsession with these lace-up shoes.

Uniform shoes

This love affair with hip-hop led to Timberland’s heyday, despite management’s reluctance at first. This is feared to confuse the brand identity which is based on the technicality and authenticity of the product. But the numbers dispel doubts. Between 1991 and 2000, the brand’s profits rose from 74 million euros to more than 464 million euros. And in 2000, revenues exceeded one billion dollars (928 million euros). The yellow shoe and its endlessly adoring unofficial ambassadors have a lot to do with it. The American company sells millions of pairs without ever reviewing the design of its shoe, nor the 39 components or 80 steps required to manufacture it. The attitude and outlook conveyed by his influential people of the time do the rest.

During the teenage years of the 1990s, lace-up boots served as a uniform. In addition to style, there is a desire to wear sturdy, comfortable shoes. “To be adopted and loved, shoes must fulfill the contract of performance and functionality. If the contract is fulfilled, they have the best chance of crossing the ages,” explains the brand’s marketing director Driek Lenknegt. However, sales stagnated from 2006. By 2010, the brand was suffering some losses and struggling to return to its cruise growth. It needs to take on VF Corporation and change its communication to get back on its feet. Timberland is starting to develop its fashion card, specifically its streetwear legacy. Without losing its utilitarian character, whose image is preserved to this day. Witness the appearance of Rishi Sunak in November 2022, making his first visit to Ukraine as UK Prime Minister. For a meeting with Ukrainian leader Volodymyr Zelensky, who now appears only in military uniform, the Brit wore his pair of crocs.

love and disappointment

But the timpani hype, the brand will seek it first by multiplying collaborations with artists and designers. In 2017, he hit hard by getting close to rapper Nas, with whom he signed a capsule collection. And is experimenting with a new sales strategy, the “drop”. A technique immortalized by streetwear brands in the 1990s, Supreme (joined VF Corporation in 2020) is leading the way. The brand starts dropping off mini collections and parachutes into the middle of the season without warning. The unstoppable practice of reaching the younger generation and activating the touch of desire is based on the strategy of rarity. It creates a sense of urgency, exclusivity, even frustration. The shoe then becomes an object of greed and speculation. Rejected and desired models are legion. In Stock X, some shoes like the Timberland x Off White are reselling for up to twice their price. As a result, this accessory, usually confined to sturdy legs, rises on its pedestal to claim style itself… It seems that it is on its way to an extension.