Chef Yannick Alleno signs the menu of Prunier restaurant on avenue Victor Hugo in Paris, of course, around caviar. Madame Figaro
Address in sight. At the invitation of the historical master of French caviar, the star chef revisited the establishment’s menu with his usual delicacy, starting with the legendary Christian Dior egg.
At the corner of avenue Victor Hugo and rue Tractire in the 16th arrondissement of Paris, the turquoise scrolls of the mosaicist Auguste Laburet shine as bright as the first day. On this day in 1924, Emile Prunier, taking the torch from his father, Alfred, opened a restaurant in the purest Art Deco style. The prodigal son dreamed of this setting to perpetuate the best seafood menu, the famous oyster bar invented by his father and to offer a tasting of the French caviar of which Maison Prunier became the leading producer in 1921.
One hundred years later, the site, listed as a historical monument, has been renovated by interior designer Alexandra Saguet, together with Studios Gohard and L’Atelier du mur. It is enough to revive the charm of this decor with delicate moldings and marine murals. In the spirit of this renewal, the house asked multi-star chef Yannick Alleno to sign off on a new menu last fall while overseeing the new design.
Chef: Yannick Alleno, finesse and strength
Yannick Alleno tasting Osetra caviar from Prunier. Nicolas Lobbestel
Yannick Alleno, a dedicated chef, has always appreciated national cuisine and sustainable practices. This invitation to Prunier, the French caviar temple, was therefore obvious. After brilliantly restoring the emblems of establishments such as Ledoyen and Le Meurice, the three-star chef (at Pavillon Ledoyen and his Le 1947 restaurant in Cheval Blanc) has overseen the renaissance of the rue Victor Hugo address. It revisits Christian Dior’s iconic egg modestly, a soft-boiled egg adored by couture, served with delicate jelly and garnished with caviar grains. And brings its modernity by playing on textures, like this gray shrimp jelly, this shrimp with red cabbage jelly juniper, that invite themselves on a seafood platter.
The Saint-Jacques is elaborated with tartar and carpaccio. Celery is very present without, however, being obnoxious to non-lovers of its herbaceous flavor. Like the elegant line of the Émile menu, where the plant meets caviar, to achieve perfection synonymous with simplicity. It only symbolizes the balance of the menu. The ground beef osso buco smells of subtle citrus and a burnt effect that lends that bitterness that Alenault so well masters.
The map
The menu features expert and seasonal variations on caviar. It can be eaten on its own first, of course, with the help of an irreplaceable small pearl spoon. It will be necessary to choose from varieties, all of which are cultivated at the Prunier plant, which is supplied by the Dordogne tributary island. Founded in 1921, long before any other breeding farm in the world, the site practices responsible practices. Depending on your taste for creamy or more salty, iodized notes, the possibilities are endless. Oscietres, like Prunier vintage 2022, arrived after twelve years of patient breeding, at the rate of French sturgeon or black plum (135 euros for 30 grams), like Prunier Saint-James (98 euros for 30 grams) Tradition with sincere notes (68 from EUR for 30 g) or Malosol (98 EUR for 30 grams).
Caviar is sprinkled throughout the dishes, and Alléno’s touch is expressed in jellies and extracts, such as the starter, this pumpkin jelly with farmhouse custard and caviar with salted seeds. Or fried buckwheat served with tuna tartare and caviar grains.
Apart from the Alfred (€125) and Emile (€190) menus, à la carte dishes range from €56, such as rack of lamb and its mixed jus, to €98 for blue lobster fricassee. la mushroom duxelles or linguine with caviar. Bar Traktir offers balik salmon appetizers or “chunks”.
Chef’s word
“Prunier is a house steeped in history anchored in the Parisian landscape. And it hides a real treasure: French caviar. I want to promote this know-how to those who have it and share it with us. It’s an exceptional product, and exclusivity warrants a claim. That’s why we work on a modern kitchen at Prunier. here and there, using heritage and with touches to offer a sauce, a product, a flavor that will make the difference. Christian Dior’s egg has become a symbol of the fusion of these opposites…”.
The little extra soul
The decor itself offers a delicious trip back in time to the Roaring Twenties, when all of Paris ran to taste this French caviar, synonymous with holiday and lightness. The golden and sparkling notes of the garnish prove to be a perfect match for the iodized notes of the caviar present in all versions of its kingdom. Placed near the back of the Christian Dior table, which has also seen the passing of Francis Scott Fitzgerald or Oscar Wilde, we enjoy a relaxed atmosphere that has the elegance of not being too reserved. The service evolves discreetly without giving up its individuality, advice on caviar and “bubble” agreements is delivered with precision and genuine satisfaction in delivery. Customers of regular customers who come as neighbors and well-informed luxury Americans appreciate it in full complicity.
The restaurant with pictures
Practical information
Prunier, 16 avenue Victor-Hugo, 75016 Paris. Phone: 01.44.17.35.85. Open until 11:30pm daily except Sundays and Mondays. Menu: €68 for lunch, €125 and €190 in the evening.
Source: Le Figaro
