In the small world of gastronomy, this is the most anticipated award list of the year. Last week was the annual Red Guide ceremony, vintage 2023. A selection of one Michelin star restaurants where you can enjoy a menu for less than €50.
It’s holy grail for many cooks. This Monday, March 6, in Strasbourg, the Michelin Guide delighted and disappointed people during its annual inexplicable ceremony. For this 2023 vintage, the Red was awarded four two stars and the Graal went to Alexandre Couillon, who was awarded three macaroons for his La Marine restaurant in Noirmoutier. If eating in such a highly rated establishment is not for everyone, the 39 restaurants recently awarded a star have something to attract with attractive prices. The key? Select the lunch menu. A selection of starred restaurants offering menus for less than €50 across France.
In the video, the lady in Joia’s kitchen with Hélène Darozé
France and its terroir in the center of the plate
Local cuisine is synonymous with tradition and authenticity, an approach that some chefs treasure. True actors of French culinary heritage, their cuisine revolves around worldly heritage, seasonal produce and promoting the work of small producers. A philosophy that shines through in the dishes of Jordan Youste at his establishment in Sete, the evocatively named L’Arrivage (1). On Thursdays and Fridays at lunchtime, it offers a menu called “Iodized and Vegetable Starter” for €39. Depending on the arrivals and Mediterranean, farm and wild produce, he imagines elaborate creations that he dresses up with intense sauces, like his red mullet spring roll with Iberian chorizo, potatoes and fish bone jus bound with red mullet livers.
Also the first haloed star on the Pyrenean-Atlantic side, in the heart of the town of Hasparen, stands La Maison de Pierre (2). Behind the ovens of this Basque building, chef Nicolas Monceau and his partner, pastry chef Julien Bonnal, create cuisine inspired by the produce of the moment. Their creative and versatile work can be found for €30 on Monday, Thursday and Friday lunchtimes, taking pride of place in sauces, the common thread of this gastronomic experience.
Still in tune with cuisine that respects its environment, the Alsatian restaurant L’Enfin-Barr (3) stands out. Chef Lucas Engel and his young and dynamic team sign not a set menu, but a unique menu based on the produce of the farmers to be as close as possible to seasonality; Alsatian trout slowly cooked in smoked milk; wild boar ravioli and his lamb carrot emulsion. Thursdays and Fridays at lunchtime for €42.
Family history
Les Troisgros, les Pic, les Bocuse or les Bras… In the exciting world of gastronomy, cooking is often a family affair. Many of the winners of the 2023 vintage are united in life and behind the stoves. This is the case of the Bernabé brothers at Les Cadets restaurant (4) – Charles in the kitchen, Tristan in the dining room. Alongside their friend Lucas Bade, the trio prepares a unique menu that changes weekly based on vegetables from local market gardeners or fish from neighboring auctions. On the lunch menu (€25) we discover top dishes such as cockles from the Bay of Morbihan, celery remoulade and seaweed. grilled mackerel, winter radish and green shrimp soup; or candied apple and her whipped vanilla ganache.
By Loire-et-Cher, it is a pair that shines thanks to its first star. Chef Christophe Hay’s right-hand man for nearly a decade, Nicolas Aubry, accompanied by his wife Laura, took the helm of La Maison d’à Côté, the two-star chef’s legendary restaurant, and renamed it Ezia (5). Less than a year after opening, the consecration ceremony is dedicated to its cuisine inspired by the Loire region. The plate lunch menu for €38 offers Célestine eggs, Dubarry velouté, soufflé spelled, gnocchi and onion confit, a selection of farmhouse cheeses and a light Agria mousse, vanilla, hazelnut. Discover without delay.
Not far from there, another couple is doing large-scale work, which was welcomed by the Red Guide. At a charming inn on the banks of the Loire called Restaurant de la Loire (6), chef Fabien Rau serves alongside his friend, sommelier Marie Charbrier. We discover a modern kitchen filled with local produce, with a three-course meal for €38, available only on weekdays.
In the north, this time in Marc-en-Baroul, near Lille, chef Diego Delbecque and pastry chef Camille Paylo have invested in a former loft-like typology, with huge windows and exposed beams on the plan. He is the former right-hand man of Christophe Saintane, she of pastry chef Jessica Prealpato. As a couple in life and a team behind the ovens of their Rozó (7) restaurant, they perform contemporary and gourmet music like Dombes jars, spices and the crunchy leaves of winter salad and its fatty juice. On the menu: Tuesday to Friday afternoon, for €39. Entertainment, appetizer, main course, dessert of the day and sweets.
Another couple is talking about him this year. In 2019, Emmanuel and Simon Bessonnet took over the reins of Maison Désamy (8), dating from 1860, in the heart of the Fifes Vendeens wine village. In the kitchen, he makes precise use of his repertoire of products from his region, while he provides warm and sober service. At €39 for lunch, they offer a three-course menu starting with ricotta and spinach tortellini, Vendée ham emulsion, followed by swallowtail, celeriac both ways, virginal sauce with grapefruit and finishing in style. with an orange and hazel duo.
Flavors from elsewhere
A mix of flavors and cultures, fusion cuisine never ceases to fascinate. Provided it’s done well. Fueled by their travels, amateur chefs of this genre love to reinvent their dishes every day. This is the case of chef Yuichiro Shimatani and his wife, pastry chef Mika Shimatani. He cut his teeth alongside Regis Marconi, he behind the ovens of Alexandre Macius. Together they open Couleurs de Shimatani (9) in La Ciotat in 2021. Originally from Japan, the couple skillfully performs music at the intersection of Mediterranean cuisine and the Land of the Rising Sun. eel, a piece of seasoned Limousin beef with roasted garlic and his soba noodles, homemade bread with Aonori seaweed, a yuzu tartlet or even a matcha green tea mousse. An exceptional experience.
Chef Omar Diab in Paris is also inspired by his origins. After receiving a star for Loiseau Rive Gauche in 2020, he left and opened his eponymous restaurant (10), where he performs modern cuisine with Egyptian influences. As soon as they arrive, the customer is served karkade, this traditional drink made from hibiscus. In a room with Art Deco accents, follow leaf after leaf of foie gras, Île-de-France mushrooms, smoked eel, venison from Picardy rubbed with pepper and juniper, beets, olives and smoked sardines, or even pistachios from Sicily. enhanced with pink grapefruit. At €45 for an appetizer-main course or main course-dessert formula, the taste buds are sure to be on a trip.
Finally, a contraction of Laura’s “au” and Mickaël’s “mi”, Mickaël Clautour and Laura Legeay opened Aumi (11) just six months ago, near Angoulême. From an open kitchen to a room with a modern and refined decor, the chef draws inspiration from his travels in Japan, Hong Kong or Australia to sign a modern and retro menu to discover at €28 for a weekly meal. Menu Cauliflower and dashi, melting steak with pear slices, Dordogne porcini mushrooms, hazelnut and poultry jus on the menu. To add to your address book without further delay.
(1) L’Arrivage, 13-15 rue André Portes, 34200 Sète. Reservations: restaurant.larrivage@gmail.com.
(2) La Maison de Pierre, district of Urcuray, route de Cambo, 64240 Hasparren. Phone: 05.59.93.40.49.
(3) L’enfin-barr, 2 chemin du Château d’Andlau, 67140 Barr. Phone: 03.69.61.37.30.
(4) Les Cadets, 15 rue des Hauts Pavés, Nantes, 44000, France. Phone: 09.86.57.01.46.
(5) Ezia, 17 rue de Chambord, 41350 Montlivault. Phone: 02.54.20.62.30.
(6) Restaurant de la Loire, 30 rue de la Berge, Pouilly-sous-Charlieu, 42720. Phone: 04.77.60.81.36.
(7) Rozó, 34 rue Raymond Derain, 59700 Marcq-en-Barœul. Phone: 03.62.27.72.52.
(8) Maison Désamy, 2 rue Hervé de Mareuil, 85320 Mareuil-sur-Lay-Dissais. Phone: 02.51.52.69.43.
(9) Shimatani Colors, 35 rue Edgar Quinet, 13600 La Ciotat. Phone: 04.86.18.92.16.
(10) Omar Dhiab, 23 rue Hérold, 75001 Paris. Phone: 01.42.33.52.47.
(11) Aumi, 6 chemin des Rochers, 16400 Puymoyen. Phone: 05.45.70.76.19.
In the video, a chef from Romorantin promotes his burgers, making fun of American pubs
Source: Le Figaro
