On Sunday, in the lounges of the Salomon de Rothschild Hotel, the brand’s artistic director Pierpaolo Piccioli presented his vision of women under the umbrella of the famous men’s accessory.
Shake up the established routine of a classic suit and tie. Solve the conventions and symbolism of clothing. Finally, a little bit of all of this is what the Valentino show is all about. By sending his grunge silhouettes into the halls of the Hotel Salomon de Rothschild in Paris, was Pierpaolo Piccioli referring to the lively debates the tie regularly provoked in the National Assembly after the French Revolution? I am not sure. If the Roman designer goes on a crusade against the strict symbolism of the outfit, then it should not participate in another dispute that excites the deputies of the Hemicycle. Although; its theme nevertheless aims to untie the shackles of male power and break genre boundaries around the accessory. Outside of the political dimension, clothing here has a family, transmission order. The designer worked his collection around the tie, thinking of his 15-year-old daughter, who occasionally picks through her wardrobe to find something to wear when she’s out for a night out with her friends in Rome.
White collars and tie knots
As a result, he bet on his father’s famous suit and tie, which he didn’t really like formal wear, except for big meetings that forced him to adopt the uniform. He assures that the girl does not make it a matter of codes to deviate, but of taste and freedom. This language Pierpaolo Piccioli wanted to translate it on the pulpit with white collars and tie knots around the neck. The first sections offer a literal reading of costume grammar, tinged with the sexual and loose codes of the moment; Then a few veils here and there, long capes, a bit of sheer, a leather trench, enveloping coats, to which are added powerful reds, wrinkles, imagination, hints of yellow and checkers. The result is an evening wardrobe that moves the power cursor to the most liberating of nights. And more adventurous.
Source: Le Figaro
