Another Croatia. Zadar is a city with a rich historical past, where you can still find traces of Roman civilization, such as palaces built during the Venetian Republic. These monuments, hidden behind the ancient walls bordered by the Adriatic Sea, are the charm of the old town, where you can stroll with your head in the air on the pedestrian streets. Zadar can be visited all year round, and on sunny days its harbor allows you to reach the many islands that surround it. A paradise for divers and hikers.
Visit the old town of Zadar and watch its sunset
Zadar is not yet on the radar of mass tourism. And that’s good. The small town, which has preserved part of its walls (classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site), is home to beautiful buildings dating from the period when it was under Venetian rule. It was the largest fortified city of the Republic of Venice at that time. We love to stroll through its streets, which are paved with this beautiful luminous stone, mined from the quarries that also supplied the builders of the Capitol in Washington and the Sacre-Coeur in Paris. Through time the brilliant paths where there are Roman remains, such as this forum, which overlooks the stunning church of Saint-Donat. It is the largest pre-Romanesque construction in Croatia, all around and a favorite attraction of Zadar residents. It is now the scene of very popular classical music concerts. Do not miss a visit to the permanent exhibition of Gold and Silver in Zadar. Initiated by the great Croatian writer Miroslav Krleža in 1976, it brings together the country’s most beautiful religious art pieces in the Benedictine monastery of St. Mary. A real treasure the sisters discover, always happy to share their knowledge with visitors.
Finally, how can we talk about Zadar without mentioning its legendary sunset over the western edge of the city, which Alfred Hitchcock considered the most beautiful in the world? The attraction isn’t just solar becausesea organ (Morske orgulje), designed by Croatian architect Nikola Basic, provides an all-day soundtrack. It is an ingenious system of steps flowing in the water and hides 35 pipes of different lengths, diameters and heights. The water rushing in with the rhythm of the waves pushes the air and creates a natural melody, sometimes gentle, sometimes worthy of a thunderous opera in the harsh weather. The effect is magical and poetic. Like circles of light stuck in the ground, lit up in the evening when the sun has disappeared into the sea. A unique installation in the world.
Explore the island-city of Nin
About fifteen kilometers from Zadar lies a small historical gem: the island of Nin, Croatia’s first royal city and a major political, religious and cultural center in the Middle Ages. You can access the old town by a bridge, as it is placed on an island in the center of the bay. Strolling through its narrow streets, you will reach the Sainte-Croix church, which claims the title of “smallest cathedral in the world”. In the (small) historical museum of Nin, among other things of interest, you will be presented with one of the coins that were given to Judas for his betrayal. To forget this tragic event, go and taste the local specialty Falcon Nini. A type of kopa made with salted pork neck and sprinkled with various spices. Sprayed and smoked from the mountains, it can be eaten in thin slices, and if you’re lucky enough to find it, stock up because it’s only produced here. Finally, go and relax at the Queen’s Beach, named after the wife of Croatia’s first king, who loved to rub her skin with the black mud with dermatological properties found near this beach. on the sand, where you can also watch a rich variety of birds.
Topping: cheese, lace and salt
You need to leave Zadar to discover the “desert” landscapes of the island of Pag (which is also accessible by road via a large impressive bridge). This city has long exploited the salt marshes, and the salt blown by the winds from the mountains prevents any vegetation from growing. In winter, on windy days, it is not unusual for a thin layer of salt crystals to settle on city streets. It’s not snow, but the visual effect is stunning. The city derived its wealth from this salt, which in ancient times was so precious to preserve food. Therefore, we make sure to leave Pag with a bag of Croatian fleur de sel. Or in lace, because that’s the other specialty in town. An art that is protected by UNESCO because it is unique in the world. We discover this local tradition in a small museum where we can afford a veil that is a true work of art. Also take advantage of your visit to Pag to taste the local cheese, which has been made for generations with sheep’s milk (the only animal in the region to withstand the dry and salty world) and has won many international awards. The most famous brand is Paska Sirana and it is possible to visit the factory. Many beaches are also available around Pag.
Beaches and hiking on Dugi Otok Island
With more than 150 islands, the Kornati archipelago is the largest in Croatia. And Dugi Otok island is the longest of all. It can be reached by boat from Zadar in 45 minutes. When you land in Sali, one of the 11 villages in Dugi Otok, you’ll have to choose your beach if you prefer to find a wild cove all to yourself. At the very end of the island is a lighthouse that offers an endless view of the blue sea. And one of the few sandy beaches in the region (Sakarun). Our preference, however, goes to Veli Zal beach, which is smaller and consists of large pebbles that roll under your feet. But its crystal clear waters and the air of a lost paradise more than make up for the lack of sand. Dugi Otok also hosts the Telascica Nature Park. Explore through hikes along the impressive cliffs that lead to a stunning marine lake surrounded by vegetation. The water there is even warmer than in the sea, and swimming there is a pleasure. The less cautious can swim until October.
Paklenica Riviera. from the sea to the mountains
Paklenica Riviera is an amazing place. We go from the beaches to the mountains in a few minutes, passing quite a few picturesque villages. Paklenica National Park is one of the best mountaineering destinations in Europe. There are dozens of easily accessible routes for both beginners and true climbing experts. It is also a paradise for hikers who dive into its two canyons. And you can even visit the former underground passages of the Yugoslav army dug into the mountain. They now have a didactic and fun information center about climbing, the park’s fauna and flora.
Practical notebook
GO
Transavia is operating its route between Paris Orly and Zadar until October and will resume in the spring. Flights on Saturday. Tickets cost from 44 euros.
From the airport you can easily reach Zadar in about fifteen minutes by taxi (calculate about 20 EUR) or by bus (3.5 EUR per ticket). Information on the website: zadar-airport.hr
WHERE TO SLEEP IN ZADAR?
The Bastion Hotel built on the remains of an old medieval Venetian fortress of the XIIIe century. Some rooms have sea view, all are very quiet. And the main monuments of the city are all within walking distance, in particular, the sea organs. Very good breakfast and nice terrace for evening drinks. Double room from 149 euros.
The Bastion Hotel, Bedemi Zadarskih Pobuna 13, 23000, Zadar. Such. :+385 23494950.
WHERE TO BUY IN ZADAR?
The old town is full of restaurants, ice cream parlors and bars with terraces where you can drink. We offer two addresses that are not on the main tourist routes. hole is located in the small port of the same name at the foot of the famous Zadar wall. This elegant address offers a wonderful and tranquil terrace to enjoy contemporary seafood cuisine. Fosa also boasts a rich cellar with over 120 links, mostly in Croatian.
Fosa, Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira 2, 23000 Zadar. Such. +385 23 314 421.
Sit down Kornat, you have to leave the old town and go down a few steps to reach this address, which overlooks the port of Zadar. The customers are mostly local and Croatian, which is always a guarantee of quality. The cuisine offered in the Art Deco dining room is delicious, authentic and generous.
Kornat, Liburnska obala 6, 23000 Zadar. Such. + 385 23 254 501
Published in September 2021, this article is being updated
Source: Le Figaro
