Due to repeated episodes of intense heat, cracks and landslides disrupt the route to Mont Blanc. Officially, access to the legendary summit is not closed, but the guides who accompany thousands of enthusiasts every year have decided not to take certain routes anymore. Olivier Graeber, president of the Compagnie des guides de Chamonix, explains the options for those looking to start climbing this summer.
LE FIGARO. – Has access to Mont Blanc become impossible?
Olivier Graeber. – No, but the normal route known as the Goûter has become extremely dangerous, especially since the clients of this climb are sometimes inexperienced. The Goûter Corridor is prone to rockfalls, and their frequency increases due to the drought, which usually occurs at such a level after a month. There are other accesses to the summit of Mont Blanc, such as the Cosmiques refuge or the Italian routes, but these routes are more difficult. We are connected with the freedom of access to the mountains. it is up to everyone to assess their own technical capabilities. But you should know that contrary to what we sometimes hear, Mont Blanc is not an easy climb.
Does this mean that the normal route will be unavailable for the rest of the season?
We cannot make predictions, our profession requires daily adaptation. We are in constant contact with scientists and the High Mountain Gendarmerie platoon to follow the evolution of the conditions. Are we going to have a freeze in the next few weeks? It is impossible to say. It has recently snowed a little at a high altitude. Certainly not enough. Such conditions this early in the year are unheard of. A little more cooling will be required in a few days.
Are there other possible climbs?
Of course. There will be more rock racing, not snow, which doesn’t mean we can’t have fun. In the Mont Blanc massif, which is not limited to the ascent of the peak of the same name, or, for example, the Aiguille Rouge massif. We’ll avoid specifying a specific climb to avoid congestion at one peak, but the guides are there to make recommendations for everyone’s level and the conditions of the day. This is also the time or never to improve your technical skills so that you are ready when conditions change; rock schools, ice school, canyon. It’s always helpful to do your scales in a bit of music like this.
Source: Le Figaro
