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Lee Miller, Fashion and War. the photographer beyond the muse

Women accused of collaborating with the Nazis, Rennes, France, 1944. The Lee Miller Archive. Lee Miller

This summer, the Arles Photographic Meetings focus on female photographers. Among them is the American Lee Miller (1907-1977) as his muse for an extremely long time, shown through the exhibition “Lee Miller, Professional Photographer”.

“I’d rather be photographed than be photographed.” The formula is from Lee Miller. He summarizes his life, which is an adventure novel and will be the subject of a 2023 biopic directed by the American Ellen Couras, with Marion Cotillard and Jude Law in the cast, and the enigmatic Kate Winslet as Lee Miller. . This will complete the renaissance of the photographer’s career, who has long been reduced to a cliché of surrealist muse, boyish short hair, a long swan shot and a grape body… Anthony Penrose, the son he had with artist Roland Penrose, had: she was retorted by her New York mom when she wanted her mom’s job back, that she was only “a pawn in Man Ray’s life.”

Gael Morel, curator of the Lee Miller, Professional Photographer (1932-1945)* exhibition at the Van Gogh Museum in Arles, takes the opposite view of this macho and misguided remark, focusing on the years he was around. no longer with his teacher showing his work fashionThe studio he managed in New York and especially his war photographs in concentration camps. Because if Lee Miller was the model discovered by Condé Nast in New York, the model for Man Ray’s sunny photos in Paris, he changed course in 1932.

Ladies’ Pidou Hats (with original Vogue Studio crop mark), London, England, 1939. Lee Miller Archive. Lee Miller

war correspondent

Back to New York, where he becomes a photographer, owning his own studio, which he runs with his brother Eric, taking portraits of high society actors and fashionable artists. This is how the exhibition begins… Except Lee’s route consists of ruptures, passions, obligations. Secular salons, luxurious toilets are no longer of interest to him. We are at the dawn of 1944. Lee Miller becomes one of five war correspondents and covers the conflict. fashion signing the 14-page first report.

I ask you to believe that all of this is true

Lee Miller

After the liberation of Paris, he follows the advance of American troops in Germany with his accomplice David E. Accompanied by Sherman, a magazine reporter. life [1945թվականիապրիլիննահայտնաբերեցԴախաուիհամակենտրոնացմանճամբարը։ԼիՄիլլերըլուսանկարումէփաստագրումապոկալիպսիսիայստեսարաններըդիակիզարաններիջեռոցներիառջևկուտակվածդիակներըգծավորգիշերազգեստովկմախքներիպեսվերապրածներոսկորներիկուտակումՀամակենտրոնացմանճամբարներինրալուսանկարներըորոնքներկայացվածենիրստուդիայիևպատվիրատուիգործունեությանհետմեկտեղզարմանքուտարակուսանքենառաջացնում։այցելունՀեռագիրըորիննաուղարկումէմոդանրա լուսանկարների լուսանցքում կհրապարակվի այսպես. «Ես խնդրում եմ ձեզ հավատալ, որ այս ամենը ճիշտ է»։

«Lee Miller, Professional Photographer (1932-1945)», մինչև սեպտեմբերի 25-ը, Espace Van Gogh, Arles. հանդիպումներ-arles.com

Source: Le Figaro

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