“Something else.” this art jewelry that captivates many secret customers

The history of artistic jewelry is not new. It was written over a century ago. Picasso, Dalí and Calder tried it in turn. But be careful. It’s not about shredding existing masterpieces, the approach is completely different. Based on contemporary art, Esther de Bosset, who saw her mother wear sculpture as a child, has made it her profession as director of the MiniMasterpiece gallery in Paris since 2012. “This niche allows me to seek collaborations with artists I admire I invite them to think differently. From this momentum, projects are born, which I finance, and which come to life with the help of the goldsmith. »

Between jewelry and contemporary art, which he provoked in 2021, began with meetings with Van Köping. On the occasion of his second personal jewelry exhibition, entitled “Dans la lune”, which will be at the gallery until December 21, it is known: The Chinese sculptor presents 5 unique and new pieces of jewelry in yellow gold, silver and sapphire, including his first ring. These marvels suggest a different relationship to his usually monumental work, an intimacy and complementarity between the work and his body. stones are more associated with jewelry and fine jewelry. There is a play of volume with precious metal,” emphasizes Esther de Bosse.

Another advantage. “When a sculptor creates a piece of jewelry, it remains rare and expensive. Even more rare than his work.” But what is the typical profile of the gallery’s clientele? They may be collectors of modern art, who were moved to discover another side of the author. There are also people who love jewelry and see something else in it,” continues the editor.

Boldness as a signature

Now let’s turn to Ibu Gallery, founded in 2000 by Ibu, an artist and interior designer of Polish and Ukrainian descent, who opened his place in the heart of the Jardin du Palais Royal shortly after creating jewelry at the request of Karl Lagerfeld. when Alberto Giacometti did for Elsa Schiaparelli in the 1930s By the hands of his daughters and the gallery organized by Cyril Ermel features Alina Works by Alamoryan, Gabriella Kiss, Ted Mulling, Jessica Rose, Jane Schmitt, Ennick Tapernoon, as well as Ibu himselfor Jean Grizon, creator of objects and furniture.

Here we are talking about designer jewelry. The common flaw? Most of the featured artists share a common heritage: that of the Artwear movement (art shrinkage and wearporter in English), which was embodied in the Robert Lee Morris Gallery and which was a hit in the 1970s and 80s in New York. But how does an author’s jewel differ from a classic jewel? It is a jewel that a woman gives herself for her audacity. The jewel of the artist is defined by law.conversation piece” in the sense that it arouses interest. A woman who takes a mini sculpture to dinner wants to create a connection with those around her. Often she is an independent woman, over 45 years old… Sometimes younger, if she has already gone down this path of insisting on style and not following fashion,” explains Cyril Ermel.

Transfer object

And what advice would he give to those who are still hesitating? “Dare to walk through the gallery doors without prejudice. Free yourself. Artistic jewelry should harmonize with the body, emphasizing the beauty of a woman. That’s why you have to try. To see if a dialogue is established between the work and itself,” explains the gallery manager, who produces the Cinderella effect. “Sometimes magic happens. The ring can be tried on by 10 women before this phenomenon appears. The approach is different from the classic jewelry that is designed to appeal to a large number of people with jewelry. What comes of it?”

The editor also invites you to listen to your heart. “There is a real, intimate encounter between the person and the artist. Even if there is still a concept of investment and sustainability. It’s a transfer item, so you have to be aware of the artist’s position and the seriousness of the publisher.” But how much does such a piece cost? At MiniMasterpiece, prices range from 400 to 38,000 euros. “These are unique pieces, or very limited editions. all signed, numbered and accompanied by a certificate,” emphasizes Esther de Bosse. At Ibu Gallery, which presents new works for the holidays, you can have treated you to earrings starting at €1,000 signed by the likes of Jessica Rose.

Withstanding the test of time

For those who don’t want to take the risk and invest in an artist that has stood the test of time, industry expert Diane Vennett lists her ideal collection in the book: Artist jewelry from Calder to Koons (Ed. Flammarion.) Of the nearly 200 pieces he collected over time, the likes of Picasso, Kapoor, Indiana, Koons, Braque, Lichtenstein, Vasarelli, Stella, Armani, Rauschenberg, César, Dali… To discover these rare gems, enthusiasts they run through. auction rooms. They will be on the lookout from December 6th to 17th for the new edition of the Joaillerie Paris online sale organized by Christie’s.

And for good reason. Among the jewels of the great jewelry houses, among others, there is a collection of exclusive pieces signed by Jean Vendome. Died in 2017, this stone and crystal enthusiast, developing a taste for colors and materials, stood out for his modernity of thought and with a conceptual and daring approach.The artistic vision that brought him to the exhibition in 1968 with Georges Braque Delisle At the gallery, for the Paris Joaillerie auction, illustrator and watercolorist Tatiana de Nicolay has designed the staging of the exhibition, which will appear at Christie’s at 9 rue Matignon, Paris, from December 12 to 17.

Surrealism and nonconformism

Like Jean Vendome, some jewelry designers stand out for their artistic vision of jewelry.This is the case of Adelina Mars, who shakes up the classic codes with non-conformist pieces that let the materials express themselves. Unexpected frames, sizes and settings, with cool colors and brilliant reflections in the play of textures and stones, give a bold, slightly rebellious look… If you don’t like to be noticed, go ahead. This audacity is also wonderfully embodied by Dali Bijoux. at the heart of the permanent exhibition to be found in the attached building of the Dalí Theater Museum in Figueres, Spain From 1941 to 1970, it perfectly illustrates the different stages of his artistic evolution. In 1999, the Dali Foundation bought the collection from a Japanese organization. If you can’t afford such a treasure, you can always fall back on the phone jewelry from the collaboration between Casetify, the smartphone accessory brand, and the Spanish maestro, bringing back to life the iconic Molles watches or Bocca The sofa. You are passionate about surrealism. Also until December 21st, a jewelry exhibition at the Negropontes gallery celebrates the 100th anniversary of the artistic movement, each one more stunning than the last de Dormale’s jewelry sculptures…