Who are these people who dress up like horsemen when they’re not on a horse?

In Buckingham, the “cavalier” style has been fashionable for a long time. We remember Kate Middleton’s visit to England on October 2, 2018 in Yewhurst. The Princess of Wales doesn’t ride a horse, she’s also allergic to the animal, and yet she wore a ‘stable exit’ look in leather that day. riding boots, brown leggings and a khaki jacket. “In general, clothing is a social indicator not only of its price, but also of its style,” explains Frederic Godart, sociologist and author of the book. Sociology of fashion (2010). Clothing that involves outdoor sports such as hiking or horseback riding is on the rise. They are the expression of an underlying trend where sportswear is establishing itself as a style reference and a modern statement of status.”

Like Kate Middleton, many of them adopt this style in everyday life. The 27-year-old Marine doesn’t think twice about parting with his Jonak bikes, which he bought last winter. This banking consultant refers to them as her “coolest” shoes, effortlessly accenting any look. “What I love most is that even if you wear them with a short dress, the leg remains dressed up, so they’re perfect for the city or the office. It’s both classic and sought-after.” Ditto for Anna, 35, for whom Hermès riding boots have always been a dream, especially during her high school days; horse riding. I am attracted by the elegance of the object.’

It’s been a long time since the clothing and accessories we associate with riders are no longer reserved exclusively for equestrian sports. However, the connection between improvisation and horsemanship is not new. “In the 19th century, when you ride a horse for pleasure rather than function, you are part of the elite,” explains exhibition curator Sophie Lemahieu. Fashion and sports from the podium to the other which was held in Paris from September 20, 2023 to April 7, 2024 at the Museum of Arts Decoratifs. The expert reminds us that over the centuries, horse riding has continued to evolve… and with it the style of its clothing. “In the beginning, there were elegant clothes. Over time, they specialized in sports and then moved on to everyday life, often for reasons of convenience.

Not in the riders locker room

On TikTok, many young girls recreate outfit ideas on camera inspired by outfits worn by professional cyclists. It’s enough to make Amandine, 30, who has been running four sessions a week at the club since she was 5, smile. Looking at the pictures, he notices something. “What they are wearing is the competition uniform.” According to him, there is only one explanation. “I think that people who dress like that in everyday life, but don’t ride, want to emulate this idea of ​​demand and superiority, in a way that people perceive them. in a certain way. It is here to show a priori that you are a meticulous and demanding person. Understand that this rather expensive activity indirectly allows you to take advantage of your leisure time. A fact that is not a luxury in an extremely fast society, where few still know how to “take time for themselves”.

Equestrian sports have a concept of elegance that has remained. Due to its age, its nobility, everything is associated with elegance

Sophie Lemahieu, curator of the exhibition “Fashion and sport, from one podium to another”.

In this constant evolution of clothing, which continues to intrigue generations, fashion brands also play a role. It is impossible, for example, not to talk about Ralph Lauren and his legendary polo shirt, which is embroidered with the image of a polo player, or the luxury house Hermès, which presents special products for horses alongside its very famous Saut Hermès. and riders. “In a very general way, luxury houses are interested in associating with athletes who are as much figures as singers and actors,” analyzes Sophie Lemaheu. By accepting athletes as muses, it is possible to assimilate such beautiful values ​​of sports as fair play, team spirit, and surpass oneself.

Trend

Fashion shows only confirm this. we recall Gucci’s fall-winter 2021 collection, which featured several revised rider silhouettes. Or the recent Louis Vuitton Fall-Winter 2024 men’s show, a true homage to the culture of the Wild West and its horse-riding cowboys. “Outerwear in general implies a concept of exclusivity and inaccessibility. For riding, we also have to take into account a certain amount of practice and its technical difficulties, which make it a separate sport,” says Frederic Goddart. Obviously, fashion and emerging trends are reaching an audience that isn’t necessarily into riding. But who can make an impression?

Dressing like a rider blurs the lines. Today, a person carrying riders may very well go to the equestrian center… Just like shopping. The principle of the phrase “habit does not make a monk” gets its full meaning here. According to the sociologist Frédéric Godard, “This is the magical power of fashion, a form of illusion that cannot be easily discovered.”