Botox or Notox? Recent achievements in slowing down the effects of time

“Notox”! It is the growing trend in social networks that we owe to the reduction of “no” and “botox”. In summary, an anti-aging (not so new) approach that offers to fight skin aging with non-invasive treatments, not injections. This includes massages, but also acupuncture, LEDs, facials and, of course, cosmetics. However, at the same time, the aesthetic medicine market has never been better. It is worth billions of dollars and is growing at 5% annually worldwide, with more growth in the US and Asia. Still in the lead is botulinum toxin over wrinkle fillers such as hyaluronic acid.

The growth was confirmed by two recent congresses dedicated to aesthetic medicine. 22.^e AMWC (World Congress of Aesthetic and Antiaging Medicine) in Monaco, and 25^e Edition of IMCAS (International Master’s Course on the Science of Aging) in Paris, a major annual meeting for specialists in clinical dermatology, plastic surgery and anti-aging medicine. More than 800 experts gathered there to talk about the main topics of the moment: injections, lasers, cellular therapy, regenerative medicine, adipose tissue transplantation, artificial intelligence and ethics… fake syringes (people who inject illegally, Editor’s Note), recalled D^r: Benjamin Ascher, plastic surgeon and pillar of Congress. We need to find the right balance between information and mediation.”

Health as the main issue

Health is another important issue, and D^D: Nellie Gauthier, aesthetic doctor, who spoke at a press conference organized by the pharmaceutical group Menarini. “My work is health, and by that I mean healthy self-expression.” He does not hesitate to compare aesthetics and art history. “If we look at the paintings of the Middle Ages, we will see emotionless faces, all identical, with unrealistic proportions and perspectives. Everything changed during the Florentine Renaissance. Inspired by Antiquity, Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo and Raphael came as close to life as possible.” Number D:^D: Gauthier, the Middle Ages of aesthetic medicine, or the age of the “ageless,” is coming to an end and we are entering Renaissance 2.0. This is based on four pillars: respect for emotions, true knowledge of fine anatomy thanks to medical discoveries, foolproof technique with the best tools and products, and finally, safety. And everything starts with the first consultation.

“There is 10% of what we say, and 90% of what is assumed,” claims the aesthetic doctor. We never express the most important thing. This is why I devote more than an hour to actively listening to it. Sometimes you don’t have to do something because of the emotional context. If someone is afraid, then everything will go wrong. Then it’s all about harmony. I always ask for a photo of the patient before they turn 30. Not so that he can restore the face of his young daughter, but to respect her personal dimensions.” Indeed, the different layers of the face, muscle, fat, skin and bone, do not age at the same rate or in the same way for everyone. The fixed points of the face should also be taken into account, in particular the ligament-like line, which starts from the top of the eyebrow, passes through the crow’s feet, ends at the chin after the middle of the cheek. “If we inject in the wrong place or too superficially, then it is counterproductive and we risk accelerating the embarrassment,” adds the specialist. Possible complications remain, sooner or later, rare, but always possible. Only an experienced doctor can fix it. Not a temporary beauty spa.

Natural alternatives

Many women prefer natural alternatives and refuse to bite at the first wrinkle due to lack of conviction, fear or financial means. “It’s a really different approach,” confirms Chantal Lehmann, one of the pioneers of facial massage. Twenty years ago I started training my facial muscles as well as my body and found that it worked by feeling pain. Over the years and my travels, I have enriched my techniques and created the HoliFitness massage, which combines 450 techniques that I personalize for each client. I treated facial hemiplegia and got results. But be careful, for it to work, you have to demand the muscles and make them work in contrast. And do reps like in sports. During the session, the woman is not passive, she works with me. Kobido, for example, is a great tissue and blood circulation massager, but it doesn’t affect the muscles.”

What results can we expect? Raised cheekbones and corners of the mouth, reduced wrinkles, super shine. Chantal Lehmann is arguably the only one in the world who has done a clinical study to study the effects of her practice on 32 people who followed every ten sessions. “During the ultrasound examination, we noticed 7% thicker skin,” he says. It doesn’t seem like much, but it’s huge. I have had results at all ages, but of course the earlier you start and the more regular you do it, the more effective it is. The right protocol: five sessions closed, then once a month with some simple exercises to do at home.” Pragmatic, he is not against medicine or cosmetic surgery. “The methods can be complementary, for example before or after a facelift. There is no substitute for a scalpel in case of real addiction, especially of the eyelids. But he doesn’t really like Botox, which makes the eyes rounder and, according to him, “slowly suffocates the skin. I’m only interested in treating dark lines.” He also states that he is quite favorable to LEDs, which he uses regularly (especially Lightinderm and the Lucibel.le mask) and RF (Morpheus). “Except for extremely thin faces, because it eats the fat.”

HoliFitness treatment, 1 hour 15 minutes, €250, chantallehmann.com

Slow down the effects of time

Other hands of experts have developed their signature protocol. Starting with Farnaz Hershtakapet. Radiance, tightened skin texture, faded fine lines… The facialist has a loyal clientele (including quite a few actresses and actors) who come to slow down the effects of time at her office near Place de l’Etoile in Paris. With a big heart and magical hands, this Iranian woman swears by health and gives good advice on a healthy lifestyle. She only works with Isun, a 100% natural brand that contains cold-processed medicinal plants and is energized by crystals.

€180 for 1 hour treatment, €250 for full 1.5 hour treatment, farnaz.paris

The Seasonly brand is also an ardent supporter of the Notox trend. At Skin Studios, we adapt to your schedule and your budget. Which allows you to come more often and, as we know, only regularity pays in this field. Korean Lift, Intraoral Massage, Tensiolift Treatment…, each treatment, each in its own way, awakens the radiance of the face, redraws the oval and outline of the mouth. Finally, let’s not forget the experts with fairy fingers who have brought facial massages back into the limelight: Aline Fauchort, queen of cobido, Sophie Carbonari, Delphine Langlois, Marie Despoulins and Élisabeth Nadeau.

€65 for 30 minutes, €145 for 1 hour, seasonally.fr