How to achieve the seductive inverted smoky eye from Dior’s Spring/Summer 2024 Haute Couture show?

What creates a makeup aura? It is this mystery that guided the beauty of Dior’s spring-summer 2024 haute couture collection, which opened at the Musée Rodin in Paris on Monday, January 22. “The idea was to take a very basic element and see what it would do to each person. If you reproduce this same pencil stroke on someone, it will be constantly updated, because each model will create something unique,” answers Peter Phillips, creative and image director of makeup at Dior. The element of the question. Black collie line under the eyes. “All girls have tried it before, but for some it’s more sensual, for others it’s more punk or more aggressive. That’s why everyone has their own aura,” adds the specialist.

Blur effect

To bring out the magnetism of the models, “I applied black waterproof eyeliner to the lower lash line. Then I asked making their eyes blink. This creates a blurred effect, as if the black has left a mark,” explains Peter Phillips. “I then added an extra layer of eyeliner that I blended lightly with a cotton swab, extending slightly from the outer corner of the lower lash line and extending it out to the sides. Thus, the emphasis is placed on the line under the eyes, which emphasizes the gaze. There is no need to add eyelashes to the eyelashes, which are simply curled. In a few minutes, you get an alluring inverted smoky eye that makes each model different for everyone, sometimes seemingly grunge, sometimes naughty.

Don’t worry if the result isn’t perfect. “It’s not about creating a very clear line, but rather ‘lived’ makeup. It’s a somewhat casual look that can look effortless,” the makeup artist continues, before clarifying, “On the other hand, the color shouldn’t come out on the surface of the removable lid, which should remain very clean.

The rest of the face is subdued so that the look can grab all the attention. The mouth is simply moisturized with lip balm, while the complexion is left bare, “very neutral, no highlighter or contouring, because it’s the stage light that naturally sculpts the face.”